Archive for the ‘Articles’ Category

Signs That Your Horse Has An Insect Problem

Saturday, June 1st, 2024

How to Tell if Your Horse Has an Insect ProblemSigns That Your Horse Has An Insect Problem: We’ve all had times where we wish our horses could talk and tell us what’s bothering them. The truth is, horses do communicate as best they can. It’s up to horse owners to pay attention to behaviors and physical signs to interpret what’s wrong. (And don’t forget to visit KVF for your horse supplies!)

You know fly season is in full swing when horses are reacting to flying pests. Stomping feet, swishing tails and shaking heads are all normal behavioral responses to flies and insects. Is there a pond or mud puddle available? Horses will often roll or stand in it in an effort to avoid flies.

But some horses also exhibit physical signs that insects are bothering them more than normal.

  • Is your horse’s hair falling out in clumps?
  • Does his mane have places where he’s rubbed out some or even all of the hair?
  • Does he vigorously scratch his tail on fence posts, stall walls or trees?
  • Are there places where his skin is irritated or even raw?

These are obvious signs your horse is having trouble with insects that shouldn’t be ignored.

When your horse acts “itchy”

It’s not unusual for a horse to use stationary objects, like a fence post, to scratch an occasional itch. But when a horse walks away from food to scratch or repeatedly rubs his ears, tail, mane, neck or belly to the point that his hair is falling out and his skin is raw–or even bleeding–there is a definite reason.

How can you know if your horse is actually allergic to insect bites, or if he just has irritated skin from being bitten?

“A horse with substantial hair loss or incessant itching likely needs to see a veterinarian who can do some diagnostic testing to nail down a cause,” notes Martha Mallicote, DVM, Dipl. ACVIM, veterinarian and large animal clinical assistant professor at the University of Florida.

“With skin disease, it’s very temping to label it as ‘not that important’ and just treat with over-the-counter ‘remedies.’ But the reality is that some horses with significant allergies need really aggressive therapy to improve their actual quality of life–not just the quality of their hair coat,” adds Mallicote.

She explains that there is not a definitive way to differentiate “itchy” from an actual sensitivity other than allergy testing, which would show any allergens that are affecting the horse. In such cases, your veterinarian’s expertise can get to the root of the problem and help your horse be more comfortable.

“A vet will complete a physical exam, including close inspection of the abnormal skin, and likely choose to take skin samples for culture, cytology or other testing,” says Mallicote.

Signs of insect allergies

Unfortunately, in addition to the aggravation factor, some horses are actually allergic to insect bites. Signs of substantial insect allergies include:

  • frequent itching to the point of destruction of fences and stall equipment from the horse’s rubbing
  • welts or swelling in the affected area
  • hair loss from intense rubbing due to itching
  • broken skin, sometimes to the point of bleeding

If your horse has intense itching and hair loss in specific areas, this can indicate an allergic reaction to specific pests known as culicoides.

“The classic distribution of hair loss for a culicoides-sensitive horse is the mane/neck, tail head and ventrum (belly) of the horse,” explains Mallicote.

Culicoides sensitivity

Tiny biting midges, sometimes described as “no-see-ums,” but properly identified as culicoides, can cause extreme distress by biting the horse’s mane, tail and belly, especially if the horse is allergic to the insect saliva. Affected horses will scratch themselves on almost any stationary object in an attempt to relieve the extreme itching.

Culicoides sensitivity may also be referred to as “sweet itch.” In addition to severe itching, it’s common for horses with this condition to have patches of skin with broken or missing hair, scaliness and even oozing lesions. Secondary infections are possible when the skin is broken.

“Culicoides sensitivity is quite common, especially in the Southeastern U.S., but most horses have a more manageable case of the disease,” says Mallicote. “There are certainly those horses that are especially sensitive and do develop those really severe signs that indicate they are so terribly itchy that they cannot stop scratching.”

For those horses, Mallicote says it’s important to minimize exposure to culicoides. These biting midges are most active around dusk, so protecting horses that are sensitive typically means stabling them at this time of day and using fans that create a strong enough air current to keep midges from landing on the horse and biting.

Veterinarians treating such horses may have to prescribe strong anti-inflammatory medication to help get the itch under control.

Be proactive

If your horse has had issues in the past and reacted to insect bites by rubbing his mane and tail until his hair is falling out, you’ll want to take proactive steps before he’s under assault again.

“Get started with fly spray early in the season. Apply an effective product at least once daily and make sure to use enough product to really cover the horse,” advises Mallicote.

Farnam’s Endure Sweat-Resistant Fly Spray for Horses is an effective choice for hard-working horses that will be sweating, while Nature’s Defense Water-Based Fly Repellent Spray is a non-chemical, botanical-based option that also offers great protection.

Read all the directions on the spray bottle to be certain you are applying the correct amount. Use the product as recommended. Many horse owners inadvertently don’t apply enough insect repellent to perform as the product label promotes.

Physical barriers–such as Farnam’s SuperMask II Horse Fly Mask, boots and sheets–may be needed for those horses that are overly sensitive to insects. For pastured horses, spot-on repellent products may also be beneficial.

“As for some situations, long-acting products are also helpful. Not in place of the fly spray but in addition to it,” adds Mallicote. “For sensitive horses, start using fly sheets and fly masks before they are needed to minimize exposure.”

Mallicote reminds owners that these horses will benefit from being stalled with a strong fan. Especially during the time of day when pests are most active.

Keep an eye on your horse’s behavior and watch for physical signs that indicate insect irritation or possible allergy. This way, your horse won’t have to “shout” to get your attention if he’s suffering from pests.

Farnam, Cynthia McFarland

 

The Different Types of Mulch

Friday, April 19th, 2024

Types of MulchIf you’re a gardening enthusiast, you are probably well-aware of the importance of mulching. Mulching is an essential practice that helps facilitate plant growth and improve the overall health of your garden. In simple terms, mulch is a protective layer applied over the soil to regulate moisture levels, maintain soil temperature, and suppress weed growth. However, not all mulch is created equal. Understanding the different types of mulch and their benefits is crucial to determine what’s best for your garden which we will help break down for you.

Organic Mulch:

Organic mulch is made up of natural materials that decompose over time. Common types of organic mulch include bark, leaves, straw, and grass clippings. Organic mulch is best suited for gardens as it enriches the soil, enhances drainage, and improves soil structure over time. Additionally, it helps regulate soil temperature and suppress weed growth, ensuring that your plants thrive. However, it’s important to note that organic mulch decomposes and needs to be replenished frequently to remain effective.

Inorganic Mulch:

Inorganic mulch, on the other hand, is made up of non-biodegradable materials such as stones, gravel, and plastic sheeting. These materials do not break down and remain in your garden for a more extended period. Inorganic mulch is beneficial if you’re looking for a low-maintenance option that requires less upkeep. It’s also useful for areas that experience high winds and rains, preventing soil erosion. However, it’s important to note that inorganic mulch doesn’t enrich the soil, and it can increase soil temperatures during the hot summer months.

Compost Mulch:

Compost mulch is a type of organic mulch made up of decomposed organic materials such as food waste, yard trimmings, and manure. It’s often referred to as “black gold” as it’s packed with nutrients, beneficial microbes, and minerals that boost soil fertility. Compost mulch helps improve soil quality, increases water retention, and provides your plants with essential nutrients. This makes it an excellent option for vegetable gardens, flower beds, and fruit-bearing trees.

Pine Needle Mulch:

Pine needle mulch is a popular choice for gardeners as it’s long-lasting, attractive, and low-maintenance. Pine needles are acidic and work well for plants that prefer acidic soil conditions such as blueberry bushes, roses, azaleas, and rhododendrons. Pine needles also help improve drainage, suppress weeds, and prevent soil erosion. However, it’s important to note that pine needles decompose slowly, so you won’t need to replenish them as frequently as other organic mulch.

Rubber Mulch:

Finally, rubber mulch is a type of inorganic mulch made from recycled rubber tires. It’s often used in playgrounds and landscapes as it’s durable, non-toxic, and requires little maintenance. Rubber mulch doesn’t decompose, and it doesn’t attract insects or rodents, making it a safer option for children and pets. However, it’s crucial to check if the rubber mulch you’re buying is safe and toxin-free. Some manufacturers use recycled tires that contain harmful chemicals and metals that can harm your plants and soil.

Mulching is an essential gardening practice that provides a range of benefits to your plants and soil. Understanding the different types of mulch and their advantages can help you choose the best option for your garden. Whether you prefer organic or inorganic mulch, there’s an option that will work for you!

Everything you Need to Know about Raising Baby Chicks

Tuesday, January 30th, 2024

Everything you Need to Know about Raising Baby ChicksEverything you Need to Know about Raising Baby Chicks: Bringing home your baby chicks is an exciting milestone in raising backyard chickens. The three key essentials for raising baby chicks: Warmth, water and feed. Start chicks strong by providing a complete chick starter feed from day 1 through week 18.raising baby chicks

For those of us welcoming new chicks how can we give them a solid start?

To best transition chicks into a flock, provide comfort, care and complete nutrition from day one. A chick never gets over a bad start. The actions we take before chicks arrive and the care we provide in the first few days can help set-up our chicks to be happy and healthy long-term.

First things first, visit us for all your Chicken Supplies!!

Before baby chicks arrive: Set up the brooder

Set up your brooder about 48 hours before your chicks arrive. This allows time for bedding and equipment to dry and the temperature to set.

Equipment for day one includes:

Brooder: The brooder is the first home of new chicks. Be sure it is comfortable, warm and draft-free with at least 3 to 4 square feet per chick. The area should be circular and expandable.
Heat lamp: Assemble a heat lamp in the center of the brooder for bird warmth. Hang the heat lamp about 20 inches above the litter, with 2.5 to 3 feet between the lamp and the guard walls. The temperature under the heat lamp, or comfort zone, should be 95 degrees Fahrenheit and adequate room in the brooder should be available for the chicks to get out from under the heater if they get too hot. After week one, gradually reduce heat by 5 degrees Fahrenheit each week until reaching a minimum of 55 degrees.
Bedding: Add an absorbant wood shavings bedding to the floor of the brooder. Place bedding 3 to 4 inches deep to keep the area dry and odor free. Remove wet bedding daily, especially around waterers. Do not use cedar shavings or other types of shavings that have a strong odor because the odor could affect the long term health of the bird.
Lights: Provide 18 – 22 hours of light for the first week. Then reduce light to 16 hours through the growing period or to the amount of light they will receive when they are 20 weeks of age. The amount of light intensity required would be provided by a 40 watt bulb for each 100 square feet (10’ x 10’) of floor space.
Feeders: Offer 4 linear inches of feeder space for each bird. Clean egg cartons filled with feed make excellent and easily accessible feeders for young chicks. Provide low-lying feeders, or trough feeders, for after the transition.
Waterers: For every 25 chicks, fill two 1-quart waterers with room temperature water and place them in the brooder. To help water stay at room temperature, place the waterers in the brooder, outside the comfort zone (do not position underneath the heat lamp), 24 hours prior to the chicks’ arrival.
Introduce baby chicks to water

Once chicks arrive, introduce them to the brooding area. Water, at room temperature, should be available, but wait a couple hours to introduce feed.

This gives chicks a couple hours to drink and rehydrate before they start eating, fresh, quality water is essential for healthy chicks. Dip the beaks of several chicks into the water to help them locate it. These chicks will then teach the rest of the group to drink. Monitor the group to ensure all chicks are drinking within the first couple hours.

Teach baby chicks to eat:

After chicks have had a chance to rehydrate, provide the nutrients they need through a complete chick starter feed. Provide a chick starter feed with at least 18 percent protein to help support the extra energy needed for early growth. The feed should also include amino acids for chick development; prebiotics, probiotics and yeast for immune health; and vitamins and minerals to support bone health.

First, teach the chicks to eat by placing feed on clean egg flats, shallow pans or simple squares of paper. On day 2, add proper feeders to the pens. Once chicks have learned to eat from the feeders, remove the papers, pans or egg flats.

Adjust feed as baby chicks develop:

To keep feed fresh: Empty, clean and refill waterers and feeders daily. Also, raise the height of feeders and waterers so they are level with the birds’ backs as chicks grow. As chicks mature, their nutritional needs change. At age 18 weeks, adjust the feed provided to meet the birds’ evolving nutrition needs.

Transition layer chicks onto a higher-calcium complete feed, like Purina Layena Crumbles or Pellets, when they begin laying eggs at age 18 to 20 weeks. For meat birds and mixed flocks, choose a complete feed with 20 percent protein, like Purina Flock Raiser Crumbles and feed this diet from day one through adulthood.

This post on raising baby chicks has been adapted from purinamills.com.

Weed Control for Hay and Pasture Weeds

Sunday, January 28th, 2024

weed controlWeed Control for Hay and Pasture Weeds: Here are some helpful tips for weed management in forages are presented in a simple/straight-forward fashion for your convenience.

Established hay and pasture

The flowering stage is an excellent time to attempt some control of poisonous perennial plants. A number of common plants can be poisonous when eaten in sufficient quantity by livestock, so monitor those pasture and hay fields closely. Remember that perennial weeds are most sensitive to control with a systemic herbicide when they are in the bud to bloom stage and in late summer. Biennials including musk and plumless thistle, burdock, wild carrot, etc. should be treated before they begin to bolt (they are bolting now or very soon) and the smaller the better. Late fall or early spring is even a better time to treat them. And finally, control summer annual weeds as soon after they emerge as possible when they are most sensitive to chemical control. Below are some guidelines to provide a quick management summary for some common weeds of pasture.

Management guidelines for some problem weeds of pastures:

Annuals

Winter annuals (Mustard species, common chickweed, etc.)

  • Mow after bolting to prevent seed production.
  • Apply an effective herbicide in fall or spring prior to bolting.
  • Most winter annuals emerge by late fall – a smaller percentage will emerge in early spring.
  • Prevent seed production to prevent spread.

Summer annuals (Pigweed species, common lambsquarters, common ragweed, etc.

  • Keep pasture full and competitive.
  • Mow after bolting to prevent seed production.
  • Apply an effective herbicide in early summer.
  • Prevent seed production to prevent spread.

Biennials

Biennials (common burdock, bull and musk thistle, poison hemlock, etc.

  • Mow after plants have bolted but before seed set to prevent seed production.
  • Remove or dig individual plants by hand.
  • Apply an effective herbicide to rosettes in the spring or fall.
  • Prevent seed production to prevent spread.
  • Several insect biocontrol tools may help with thistles in the future.

Perennials

Creeping perennials (Canada thistle, horsenettle, etc.)

  • Mow to suppress vegetative growth and prevent seed production.
  • Spray with an effective systemic herbicide at bud to bloom stage or in early fall prior to frost.
  • Most perennials spread by both seed and vegetative structures.

Woody perennials (multiflora rose, autumn olive, etc.)

  • Mow to suppress and prevent seed production – remove roots by hand or with heavy equipment.
  • Spray with an effective systemic herbicide at bud to bloom stage or in early fall.

In conclusion, Kissimme Valley Feed offers a variety of garden supplies, fertilizers, plants, and preventative care for your lawn. Keeping your pasture, lawn, or garden free from bugs and weeds is important.  Our selection of herbicides, insecticides and pest traps will have you in control of these pesky weeds. See our lawn and garden section here.

Article Source: Penn State Extension

Planning Your Garden

Thursday, January 4th, 2024

If you’re looking to grow your own food and enjoy the rewards of a flourishing garden, you’re in the right place. January marks the perfect time of year to start planning and getting everything ready. Whether it’s your first time starting a garden or you’re a seasoned green thumb, there are a few steps you need to take in order to achieve a thriving garden. In this guide, we’ll help you through the essential steps that need to be taken so you can have a successful garden come spring.

Step 1: Decide What to Plant

When it comes to planning your garden, you must first decide on what type of vegetables you would like to grow. Start by deciding what your family enjoys eating and make a list of the produce they love. Next, check which crops are best suited for the climate you live in and what will grow best in your soil type. Consider planting perennial crops that come back year after year, or focus on annual plants that produce food more quickly. Keep in mind that you should space out your plantings to ensure you get fresh vegetables throughout the entire growing season.

Step 2: Choose Your Site

Choosing the right site for your garden is crucial to its success. Look for a location that receives plenty of sunlight and has well-draining soil. Avoid areas that tend to flood or are too rocky, as this can stunt plant growth. Also, pay attention to nearby trees that may cast shade over your garden bed and rob your plants of sunlight. If you are planting a container garden, make sure it has proper drainage holes to avoid over watering.

Step 3: Prepare the Soil

Soil preparation is essential to having a bountiful harvest. Start by removing any weeds or debris from the site that you have chosen. Next, consider tilling the soil to make it easier for your plants’ roots to grow. Adding organic matter to the soil can also provide necessary nutrients for your plants to thrive. Compost is a natural option for enriching your soil and can be added in the fall or early winter before planting.

Step 4: Planting and Care

It’s now time to get your soil ready and begin planting. Make sure to check the seed packet for the ideal planting time and depth, as well as how far apart the seeds should be spaced. Once planted, regular watering is essential for plants to grow healthy and strong. Consider drip irrigation or a hose with a low-pressure nozzle that can help water the plants at the root level. Regularly fertilizing with organic fertilizers will also keep nutrients flowing to your plants.

Step 5: Pest and Weed Control

Pests and weeds can be a common issue when planting a garden. To avoid problems, consider using organic means to control and keep weeds at bay rather than using toxic herbicides, which can harm beneficial insects and pollinators. Consider using natural pest control methods such as companion planting and crop rotation to help control pests and insects. Also, try using natural pest deterrents like plant oils, insecticidal soaps, and beer and yeast traps.

Now that we’ve walked through the various steps involved in planning your garden, you’ll be well-equipped to get started. Sure, there might be a little hard work involved in the process, but the rewards of a flourishing garden that provides fresh, organic produce are more than worth the effort. Remember, planning is paramount to a successful garden, so take the time to choose your site and plant accordingly, and you’ll be on your way come springtime.

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